In multi-pitch climbing, choosing the right anchor is not a matter of fashion, but of pure physics and safety. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA), in its first technical manual (alpine Skills Handbook), clearly recommends three basic types of anchors:

1. Fixed Anchor with an Overhand or Figure-Eight Knot: The classic, static equalization that creates a master point. It offers numerous advantages, alongside the well-known disadvantage of not being self-equalizing.

2. Hitch Anchor (Alouette):A direct, easily adjustable equalization, which also carries the disadvantage of non-self-equalization.

3. Self-Equalizing Dynamic Anchor: Designed to distribute the load across changing pull directions, utilizing limiting knots to prevent excessive slippage in the event of a point failure.

On the other hand, Petzl proposes another type of anchor connection using knot combinations (such as a Bowline or Figure-Eight tied directly into the anchor points). For some reason, this variation is heavily promoted across social media (Instagram, YouTube, TikTok). Although algorithms continuously highlight new or increasingly complex techniques, the essence of safety remains anchored in the fundamental principles of the UIAA.

Thus, beyond social media trends and different schools of thought, every safe anchor relies on two basic physical principles:

1. V-Angle < 45°: The angle formed by the slings/ropes at the master point should ideally be less than 45 degrees. At this angle, the load is optimally distributed 50/50 across each anchor point. As the angle widens (especially above 90° or 120°), the forces exerted on the individual points multiply dramatically!

2. Belayer Distance > 1.5 m: The distance between the belayer at the anchor and the leader’s first piece of protection must be greater than 1.5 meters. This ensures that the belayer’s hands will not get entangled or strike the carabiner during a sudden fall, while keeping the fall factor low.

And let’s not forget the core construction guidelines of a solid anchor—the famous SERENE framework: Solid (Strong, reliable components), Equalized (Load distributed evenly) Redundant (Backup components in place), Efficient (Quick and straightforward to build), No Extension (Minimal shock-load elongation if one point fails).